Coming from a Hakka family with a large extended family on my father’s side, Chinese New Year always meant a trip to Cameron Highlands. My papa would drive us there to celebrate with my paternal grandparents, aunts, uncles, and cousins. It was a happy occasion with lots of delicious food, snacks, and playing firecrackers with my cousins. My paternal grandmother, an excellent cook, would prepare an array of traditional Hakka dishes and snacks. One of the highlights of our CNY feast was her famous Hakka Yong Hou Si—stuffed dried oysters. She would also fry prawn crackers and salted dried tofu crackers and store them in those traditional big biscuit tins for her super large family to enjoy when they all returned to Cameron Highlands.
This Yong Hou Si dish, synonymous with CNY, is both delicious and labor-intensive. My grandmother would prepare it days, sometimes even a week, in advance. With 10 children and their families to feed, she had her hands full. The process involved stuffing fish and pork paste into large dried oysters, and then pan-frying them to golden perfection. The dish was served with a rich 'fatt choy' (black moss) sauce, symbolizing prosperity and good fortune. This auspicious dish, known as “Fatt Choy Yong Hou Si,” is a cherished tradition among Hakka families during the festive season.
After my grandmother passed away in the early 2000s (both my paternal grandparents lived into their 90s), my papa took up the mantle. A self-taught and passionate cook, he has faithfully prepared this dish every year since—for more than two decades. He always made extra so I could bring some back to KL and savor it long after the reunion dinner.
This year was no different. Though I couldn’t be in Ipoh for the CNY reunion dinner, my papa made sure I had six pieces of his stuffed oysters with the signature fatt choy sauce to take home. Today, I finally had the chance to indulge in this special dish. My MIL braised pork belly with sea cucumber and fish maw, then added the fried stuffed oysters and sauce. The result was absolutely delicious. Each bite brought back nostalgic memories of those CNY reunion dinners in Cameron Highlands and Ipoh, surrounded by family and laughter.
I hope my papa, who turns 82 this year, continues to cook this beloved dish for many more years. Perhaps one day, I will learn the recipe from him and pass this cherished tradition down to my daughters and future generations, ensuring that the legacy of Hakka Yong Hou Si lives on.
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